Producer | Domaine du Clos de Tart |
Country | France |
Region | Clos de Tart Grand Cru |
Subregion | Burgundy |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2017 |
Sku | 103300 |
Size | 3L |
ABV | 13.00% |
ELITE
The profile of the 2017 vintage shows a great level of elegance and freshness, compared to the 2016 which was more defined by structure and concentration. The 2017 Clos de Tart shows beautiful depth, with complex aromas which transition from red fruits to black as the wine aerates. Ethereal floral notes of violets and rose carry with the long palate of silky, delicate tannins. The wine is supported by the terroir’s signature frame of great precision, in line with the best years produced at the Domaine.
Critical Acclaim
V98
Vinous
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80% new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
Barrel Sample: 96-98
D96
Decanter
Despite what has been written about high yields in the Côte de Nuits in 2017, Jacques de Vauges made less Clos de Tart than he did in 2016. Picked much earlier than it used to be when Sylvain Pitiot was in charge, this is a fine, focussed, nuanced wine that expresses the complexity of this monopole grand cru. With deftly integrated 60% whole bunches and 80% new wood, it's elegant, floral and precise with chalky freshness.
BH94
Burghound.com
A much more floral-inflected nose is equally fresh and ripe with a broader range of spice elements adding breadth to the pretty red and blue pinot fruit aromas. The caressing and wonderfully vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess notably better mid-palate density before concluding in a lingering, balanced and much more complex finale. I like the focused and drive of the finish, indeed this could aptly be described as a wine that delivers power without weight.
Barrel Sample: 91-94
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